Like many families, we have a tradition to cook the birthday child’s—or grown-up’s, as the case may be—favorite meal and dessert of choice for his or her birthday. My mother’s favorite dish is chicken and biscuits, made by her mother who, in turn, learned the method from her mother-in-law, a farmer’s wife from Iowa. Now, I’m also quite sure that most families have similar stories about their grandmother’s bratwurst, or dim sum, or enchiladas, how each is made with love, but as I watched my grandmother cook this meal, I noticed something strange. You see, in addition to tasting the gravy between additions of new spices and stirring until the consistency is just right, my grandmother adds yellow food dye. That’s right. A completely unnatural and unnecessary food additive whose only purpose was to deepen the warm, yellow color of the gravy.
As I stood there incredulous at this addition, my mother chimed in, “Chicken and biscuits just isn’t the same without it being yellow. I remember that so clearly from when I was a kid.” My grandmother went on to explain that she’d picked up this step too from her mother-in-law. ”What a fascinating thing,” I thought. It seemed to me that food dye was something that you only found in restaurants from “real” chefs who cared about how their food looked in addition to how it tasted. But here was a home cook who was born at the turn of the century adding yellow food dye to her gravy. It made me feel good to think that somewhere in the middle of rushing around to feed the folks who had been working on the farm, Edna Hawn added a dash of coloring to make her dish perfect. I have to admit too that it’s a clever addition; the gravy does look ever-so-much more appetizing when it contrasts from the shade of the biscuits.
And so it was that when I wrote down the recipe to preserve it for my own family someday, I dutifully wrote down the addition of a few drops of yellow food coloring as the last step. Sometimes you can’t explain why your family does the things it does, but that’s just how things are.